In past decades, many households would maintain their cars. These numbers have declined considerably, especially since the 1990s. Aside from social reasons, cars have become less DIY-friendly - or have they? While it is true that modern cars rely more on diagnostic computers and specialist knowledge than before, they are less maintenance intensive.
Today's motorcar tends to be less demanding at service time, compared with one made fifty years ago. Nowadays, dwell angles, fuel-air ratio mixture settings and ignition timing adjustments are all controlled automatically by the engine management system. Regular contact breaker point gap measurements, rotor/distributor cap replacement, multiple grease nipple lubrication points and rocker valve gap checks have been consigned to history.
In many ways, therefore, modern cars are more suited to DIY maintenance than before. Even so, while you can save money on garage labour, by performing the work yourself, you will need to acquire tools and equipment before you start.
Should you not be confident about performing a full service at home, you can still save money, by starting with the simpler tasks. For instance, replacing the wiper blades, engine oil and oil/pollen/air filters.
You can then ask a garage to perform the more complex jobs, such as diagnostic checks and diesel filter changes, for instance. There is nothing wrong with this approach, especially if it builds your confidence. However, we advise against supplying parts for your garage to fit, because it tends to be a false economy. Some garages also refuse to do this, for liability reasons.
How can I work on my car safely?
If this is your first experience of DIY car maintenance, be aware that you could damage your vehicle and harm yourself severely, if you are not careful. Do your research and be obsessive about safety. You will need a level surface, on which to work. A roadside is not a safe place to service a car. Should you be fortuitous enough to have access to a garage, ensure that it is well ventilated, so potentially lethal exhaust gases can escape.
Think about clothing. Buy decent overalls, take off any jewellery and tie back long hair. Protect your skin with barrier cream and use latex, or vinyl, gloves. Steel toe-capped footwear is a wise investment.
As you must remove the road wheels and venture beneath the car, buy chocks, a decent jack and axle stands. Never venture beneath a raised car, supported by a jack alone. A set of drive-on ramps is also useful. A rolling car creeper also makes it more comfortable for you to perform underside checks and a good quality torch is always worthwhile.
What tools do I need to service my car?
Hang on - you should perform some research before getting dirty. You need to know:
- Which operations your car requires and this depends on your make and model.
- How to perform these operations
- Any safety equipment/PPE, including axle stands, masks, gloves and overalls (see above).
- Good quality replacement parts
- The correct specification fluids.
- The physical tools with which you can conduct this work
When researching which tools your car requires, manufacturer/trade literature may help you. Internet videos and advice from owner group forums can also be useful, if not entirely accurate. In some cases, you may need semi-specialist tools, such as large sockets, or strap wrenches. In some cases, it will be useful to purchase dedicated diagnostic equipment for your car. Fortunately, several companies focus on the DIY market, which you can approach.
Hand tools are vital. You do not need to buy professional quality items but avoid the cheapest ones you can find. The lowest quality items can be poor quality and are more likely to slip, damaging components and injuring you. We also recommend a torque wrench.
The basic tools that a novice should consider are:
- Full set of 3/8” sockets.
- ½” drive socket with 24” Breaker bar. Sockets up to 32mm, including wheel nut sockets.
- Impact driver, or impact gun (if you have impact sockets and bits).
- Long series Hex key set (Allen keys)
- Standard-type screwdriver sets; pound-thru types should be considered.
- Multi-headed screwdriver with a full set of bits.
- Torque wrench
- Hook and pick set
- Combination spanners (8mm to 19mm) Imperial sizes are worth having only if working on older vehicles, or some North American motorcycles.
- Plier set, including side cutters and short/long nose pliers.
What other issues should I look for, when servicing my car for the first time?
We do not recommend that a novice DIYer attempts to service a high-voltage hybrid (i.e. one over 48-volts that can be driven under electric power alone), or a battery electric vehicle (BEV) in any great depth. While manufacturers of these cars make them very safe against electric shocks, any technical intervention requires that the high-voltage system be deactivated. This tends to require special knowledge and high-resistance tools.
We also urge caution about keyless entry, especially on cars with stop-start facilities. The last thing you want is the engine to start unprompted, when you are working on it. Therefore, when working with keyless entry, ensure that the car is not in 'Ready' mode and the keyless fob is stored out of range, such as in the house.
What does my car need at every service?
Servicing frequency and the operations required vary between vehicles. Every car possesses a service schedule, which tends to be detailed in the service booklet. Many items are common regardless of vehicle but you should consult your service schedule so that you do not miss anything. Common tasks include:
- Engine oil and filter change (preferably with a flushing additive)
- Power steering and transmission fluid level check (if possible)
- Parking brake cables checked for fraying and correct adjustment
- Belts checked for cracks and fraying
- Exhaust system and its mounts inspected for integrity
- Coolant strength and anti-corrosion additive check
- Pollen/cabin filter replacement
- New windscreen wipers
- Diesel filter replacement
- Air filter checked and replaced if dirty
- All wheels removed and the rims checked for damage
- All tyres checked for at least 2.0mm remaining tread depth and sidewall cracks/perishing/bulges
- All brake lines checked for damage/corrosion and flexible lines inspected for perishing
- Rubber suspension gaiters checked for splits and perishing
- All rubber steering and suspension bellows inspected for damage
- Brakes checked for binding
- Brake fluid boiling point assessed and flushed if over two-years-old
- Brake linings checked for at least 3.0mm remaining thickness.
- Underside checked for leaks, corrosion and intact protective guards
- Battery checked for security, state of charge and state of health.
- A global diagnostic scan of all ECUs for fault codes
- Service light/warning reset
What parts should I buy to service my car?
Much depends on the tasks detailed in the service schedule. You will then be able to deduce which parts and lubricants you need. It is a good idea to buy everything in advance. Always buy the correct parts from recognised brands from trustworthy suppliers, such as a local motor factor.
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